Atlas Bowl reopens in T-burg after pandemic hiatus

Atlas Bowl, Trumansburg’s fun and funky combination of restaurant, bar and seven-lane bowling alley, has reopened after a hiatus of more than a year and a half. Regulars will be happy to see this local favorite return mostly unchanged but will notice a few new faces and some exciting improvements.

Owner Todd Parlato is thrilled to get back to what Atlas Bowl does best, as captured in its catchphrase, “eat, drink, bowl.”

“We weren’t a logical fit for pivoting toward a takeout only option,” Parlato said. “For us, it was better to wait until we could do what we love to do, and that’s offer hospitality and entertainment all in one spot. We’re excited to see familiar faces and meet new ones again, finally!”

Those who haven’t had the pleasure of eating at Atlas may be wondering why a bowling alley would be the topic of a food column. Let me assure you that Atlas is primarily a restaurant, and a good one at that.

According to its website, Atlas serves “elevated-comfort food.” Their menu offers something for everyone, from burgers and “totchos” (tater tots with bacon, cheddar cheese, scallions, jalapeño and lime crema) to vegan curry and crispy tofu (served with mango gastrique, cashew, jalapeño, scallion and cilantro).

“We often get newcomers coming in with a confused look on their faces, not understanding why their B&B host sent them to a bowling alley for dinner,” Parlato said. “By the time they leave, they get it.”

Although Atlas has been reopened for a few months now, it took some time to work out the kinks and get their legs under them. They didn’t hold a big grand opening and even turned away some private parties in December, usually one of their busiest times of year.

“Unfortunately, our long-time chef Brittany Laughlin took a position at Finger Lakes Cider House while we were closed,” Parlato said. “We were very sorry to see her go, but our new chef, Christopher Logue, is doing a wonderful job.”

Logue, an Ithaca native, trained at the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont and previously worked downtown at Le Café Cent-Dix.

“Since December, we’ve concentrated on getting the base menu down, keeping our greatest hits from before shutdown,” Parlato said. “Now, we’re focused on developing a chef-driven specials list.”

Some of those menu mainstays include the popular Friday fish fry and a trio of taco varieties (carne asada, carnitas and vegan). Soon to return will be the locavore special on Wednesdays.

“When the Trumansburg Farmers Market opens this spring, we’ll bring back the locavore special,” Parlato said. “The chef will go to the market on Wednesday at 4 p.m. with a basket and a budget and turn out a special by 6 p.m. that night. It’s kind of a fun tradition that brings a fresh, innovative spin to the menu.”

Atlas Bowl has always been committed to working with local providers, and that hasn’t changed. Ithaca Soy, Wide Awake Bakery and Purity Ice Cream are current examples, but Parlato hopes to expand that list going forward as the seasons allow. He reeled off a long list of farms and businesses that he worked with in the past and with whom he hopes to reestablish connections.

One improvement that locals will appreciate is the addition of online ordering and curbside pickup. An upgraded point-of-sale system installed during the shutdown allows Atlas to integrate online ordering and promote takeout foods. Virtually the entire menu, including specials like coq au vin, is available for pickup.

“Obviously, the market is different now,” Parlato said. “We’re doing a lot more takeout business than we used to and we love doing it. People can order ahead, but we’re also excited to see the person who wants to pick up food to go and have a Manhattan at the bar while they wait.”

That brings us to “drink,” the second part of Atlas’ catchphrase. Here, again, there has been a turnover of key personnel, bringing both sadness at the loss and creative new energy.

“Our previous bartender, who was our very first employee when we opened in 2015, had a baby while we were closed and did not return,” Parlato said. “I’m overseeing the bar with the help of two new bartenders who bring their own recipes and ideas to the position.”

A recent example was the Tequila Chai Hot Toddy with honey and bitters featured on a cold night in January. When it comes to wine, Atlas has transitioned to selling by the glass or half bottle, which Parlato believes pair better with their eclectic menu. But the lion’s share of Atlas’ bar business comes from their carefully curated selection of craft beers and ciders.

“Here we have an extremely local focus,” Parlato said. “The local varieties are our strongest sellers. People who’ve been on the wine trail all day come in ready for a beer.”

Atlas Bowl has retained its cool, retro vibe and doesn’t appear to have undergone extensive renovations. But in fact, the alley got a significant upgrade during the downtime. New ball handlers were installed, improving the quality of the experience without changing the look of the vintage bowling space.

“We took advantage of the opportunity to convert the seventh lane to candlepin style bowling,” Parlato said. “It uses a ball slightly bigger than a bocce ball, and the pins themselves are straight cylinders. The game is basically the same but a bit more challenging. It’s also more accessible for kids or those with shoulder issues who can’t handle the weight of the bigger ball.”

When it comes to entertainment, Atlas Bowl offers more than just bowling.

There is the ever-popular Quiz Bowl Trivia on Wednesday nights, a quirky, personality-driven trivia contest that has teams vying for a modest gift certificate, a homemade trophy and (mostly) bragging rights.

On Thursdays, Atlas hosts a Vinyl Showcase, where collectors of interesting and obscure music bring in their own vinyl collections to play from 7 to 10 p.m.

“The mix is all over the place, from rockabilly to jazz to Afro-pop,” Parlato said. “People hang out at the turntables chatting about albums. There are so many people out there who are more vinyl nerd than professional DJ. I want people to share their collections and get them out there.”

Whether you’re looking for a place to go on date night, a place to take the kids or a place to chill and relax with good food and friends, you’ve found it in Atlas Bowl. Maybe they should change their tagline to “eat, drink, fun.”

Food for Thought is published in the third edition each month in Tompkins Weekly. Send story ideas to editorial@vizellamedia.com.