Brookton’s Market pays it forward

Manager Carol Ambrose calls Brookton’s Market “an eclectic little country store.” Tucked off the beaten path but just 6 miles southeast of Ithaca, its old-world charm and friendly atmosphere are best appreciated in person.

Though officially categorized as a grocery store, Brookton’s Market is so much more than that — an espresso bar serving specialty coffee drinks, a tavern with more than 16 craft beers on tap, a deli counter serving daily soup and sandwich specials and a gathering place with live music and trivia nights. And, yes, the Market does sell a variety of local and organic produce, meats, dairy and bulk foods.

Indeed, the building in the center of Brooktondale has been the home of a general store for more than 100 years, and it still retains that old-timey feel with creaky wooden floors and pendant lights. It’s a charming mix of old and new, as the Market is definitely not stuck in the sleepy past.

“A year and a half ago, we were booming,” Ambrose said. “We had college students and their families coming in, live music three or four nights a week. People would meet here after work and enjoy a beer with their friends or hang out all morning drinking coffee and using the free Wi-Fi.”

Of course, the realities of COVID-19 have changed much of that, but accommodations have been made where possible.

“We can’t have indoor seating right now,” Ambrose said. “There’s just not enough room. But the heated tent out front stays pretty comfortable at about 68 degrees.”

One thing that hasn’t changed is the food. Ambrose and her staff, including baker D. Adams, prepare delicious, fresh baked goods, homemade soups and a selection of hot and cold sandwiches daily.

“We’re kind of known for our cinnamon rolls,” Ambrose said. “We also have a lot of vegan and gluten-free options available.”

Ambrose pointed out that the Wi-Fi signal extends to the tent, an important fact for many area residents who have spotty internet service.

“At the beginning of the pandemic, when the store was closed, people would come and sit in their cars in the parking lot just to get online,” she said. “We were even mentioned in a New York Times article.”

Other changes due to COVID-19 include the addition of curbside pickup for grocery and deli orders.

“People can call in and pay over the phone, and we’ll do their shopping for them,” Ambrose said. “We have a table set up outside so they don’t have to come in to pick up their orders.”

The taps are still flowing as well, albeit with fewer varieties available. The website lists those currently in stock and is likely to include favorites from Hopshire, Liquid State and Lucky Hare.

“At one time, we had the most local beers on tap of any place in Tompkins County,” Ambrose said. “We still have 16 to choose from. You can buy a growler here or bring in one of your own to fill. We also have wine by the glass and we feature South Hill ciders by the bottle.”

Brookton’s Market is a community hub in many ways, and residents have been very supportive. When a recent snowstorm collapsed the big, white tent in front of the store, customers were on the phone the next day offering to help fix it. Before the holidays, an anonymous donor started an account at the Market so struggling families could get a free Christmas tree.

“People have continued to donate to what we’re calling the Pay It Forward account,” Ambrose said. “If we know of someone who is having a hard time, we can use the fund to help pay for their food or groceries.”

Marie Cope, co-owner of Brookton’s Market, is committed to working with other local businesses. According to the store’s website, its mission is “to support and showcase the talents of our vibrant community, whether it is through our relationships with local farms, producers, and artisans or the performances and music that joyously fill the store on a regular basis.”

True to its mission, the Market uses primarily local sources for groceries and prepared foods. The cheeses on sandwiches and in the dairy case come from Snow Farm Creamery, all coffee drinks use Copper Horse coffee and produce comes from farms like Nook and Cranny. In addition, guests at area bed and breakfasts are offered a discount when they stop in after a hike at nearby Shindagin Hollow State Forest.

Cope says that she wants the Market to “continue to be a gathering place for neighbors and visitors to the Finger Lakes region.”

Brookton’s Market may be unique, but many small towns have businesses that are similarly vital to their communities, places that would leave a gaping hole if they were to disappear. When a favorite watering hole or restaurant fails, people often say, “If I’d known it was in trouble, I would’ve made more of an effort.” In today’s world, it is safe to assume that all of our small businesses are struggling. The time to help them is now.

In the case of Brookton’s Market, a small country store with a really big heart, it is more than worth the effort. Not only is the food and drink fantastic and the atmosphere more than welcoming, but shopping there also has a ripple effect of supporting local farms, dairies, brewers, tourism, artisans and musicians. Let’s raise a pint to that.